Alpinism: Horia Colibasanu to climb world’s third highest mountain in Himalayas

Horia Colibasanu, mountain climber in his spare time and professional dentist, goes on April 9 on a new bold expedition to climb the world’s third highest eight-thousander Kangchenjunga Peak (8,586 m) located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.

The expedition Slatina-Kangchenjunga 2012 will start on April 5, 2012. Horia will be accompanied by two other alpinists Peter Hamor and Adrian Valean.

The route starts on the south-western versant of the mountain in Nepal. Between the base camp (5,500 m) and the peak will be set up another 4 intermediary camps, at the altitudes of 6,200 m, 6,650 m, 7,200 m and 7,700 m.

The three mountain climbers will benefit neither from the help of the Sherpas or from supplemental oxygen; at over 8,000 m altitude the oxygen concentration is about 1/3 of that in the Bucharest air. The ascent will be made in the alpine style, according to the classical expeditions, this style referring to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner. The route will be the same British Joe Brown and George Band followed in 1955.

Kangchenjunga is considered the world’s most dangerous peak to climb and the second by difficulty after K2 (Savage Mountain).

Horia Colibasanu has made so far successful ascents of the following peaks: K2 (8,611 m), Manaslu (8,163 m), Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), Annapurna (8,091 m) and Makalu (8,481 m), being at present the only Romanian alpinist having climbed most peaks of over 8,000 m without the use of supplemental oxygen. His final goal is to reach the summit of all 14 peaks of over 8,000 m, without supplemental oxygen. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner is the first climber to ascend all fourteen eight-thousanders (peaks over 8,000 m above sea level) in 1986, after 16 years after his first ascent of an eight-thousander.

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